One day, out of the blue, my work colleague and running buddy Karo asked, “Bock auf Marokko in der ersten Aprilwoche?”
I replied, “Gibt’s ein krasses Angebot?”
She answered, “Nee, aber wir suchen eins. Hättest du Lust?”
And I went, “Klar, wieso nicht?”
And just like that, the masterplan was born. We had a vision, and within a few days we actually started booking things and sketched out a rough idea of where we wanted to go. In the end? We actually did everything we had planned—plus a spontaneous little side trip.
Overview
- Day 1: Late-night arrival
- Day 2: Exploring the city
- Medina (the old city center)
- The Islamic school Madersa Ben Youssef
- Bahia Palace
- Marketplace Jemaa el-Fna
- Day 3: Aït Ben Haddou – an unexpectedly cool stop
- Day 4: Merzouga desert camp
- Day 5: Full-day return to Marrakesh
- Day 6: From Marrakech to Essaouira
- Day 7: Day trip to Sidi Kaouki and back to Marrakesh
- Day 8: Departure to Germany (or so we thought…)
But let’s start at the beginning.
Arrival in Marrakesh
After a full workday, we headed from Dresden to Berlin to catch our late evening flight. We arrived in Marrakesh around 11 PM. Just outside the airport, there were dedicated taxi ticket booths selling rides to the inner city for 220 Dirham. Though it was definitely on the pricier side, with no shuttles or public transport running at that hour, it was the most convenient option.
The next morning, we woke up as refreshed as it gets. The bunk beds in our hostel were unbelievably squeaky. Every tiny movement felt like setting off a chain reaction of creaks and groans, but leaving that aside, we were up and ready to explore!
Our hostel was located in the northern part of the medina, and over the course of the day, we made our way through the city toward the palace in the south. Our first stop was the Islamic school Madersa Ben Youssef, which used to be the biggest Islamic school in North Africa (https://medersabenyoussef.com/history/). From there, we continued wandering through the narrow alleys lined with tourist shops, getting our first impression (and hands-on experience) of local pricing and the art of negotiation. As time went on, our focus gradually shifted from browsing souvenirs and trinketsto finding something to eat. A wrong turn led us into a random side street and, as luck would have it, that’s where we stumbled upon what was probably the most local, and arguably the best, tajine of the entire trip. Completely unexpected, and super delicious.
Our exploration continued until Karo pointed out a small shop across the street, saying, “That one looks cute.” She was right. Unlike the pushy vendors we’ve experienced so far, this shop owner was completely chill and just let us browse in peace. I ended up getting a scarf, some trousers, and a long robe, all very necessary for the days ahead.
With the clock ticking, we rushed to make it to the palace before it closed at 5 PM (also because I really had to use the restroom). On the way, we passed through the big market square Jemaa el-Fna and were immediately swept into the chaotic flow of people going every direction at once. After the palace, we returned to the market and if we thought it was packed before, it had somehow gotten even wilder. Food stalls had popped up everywhere, and people were practically dragging us in to eat at their place.
We escaped the chaos and found a rooftop right next to the market, just in time to watch the sunset and all the people moving around below like little ants. Unfortunately, we enjoyed it a bit too much and suddenly it was quite late, with most restaurants either closed or no longer existing, despite being listed as open on Google Maps. We eventually found a restaurant, but after half an hour of waiting with no food in sight and a bunch of other tables still empty-handed, we threw in the towel with that one. After almost giving up entirely and considering crepes for dinner, we stumbled upon an Indian food stall, grabbed some takeout, and ended up enjoying it on the rooftop of our hostel. The food was excellent and, strangely enough, even more expensive than what we’d pay in Germany. Not quite what we expected for our first day in Morocco, but it was a satisfying end to an eventful start.
Thus ended our first day in Marrakesh. We tried to get a good night’s sleep before our early departure the next morning for the Sahara trip. “Tried” being the keyword, as the bunk beds were still as squeaky as ever. So, while we did manage some sleep, it was pretty light. Funny now, but definitely a lot less funny at 3 AM.
Fun Fact Riad
“A riad or riyad is a type of garden courtyard historically associated with house and palace architecture […] In particular, it referred to rectangular courtyard garden that is synmetrically divided into four parts along its central axes and typically has a fountain its middle”(wikipedia). Today, the term riad is also commonly used to describe buildings with an inner courtyard—whether or not they include a fountain. It’s a really clever design that not only looks beautiful but also helps with natural ventilation and keeping the space cool.
The Sahara Tour
Today, on our second day of vacation, our three-day adventure into the Sahara began (booked through getyourguide). We were picked up early in the morning by a tour bus, ready to cover some serious distance on our way to the desert. The journey was long, but the tour had planned several stops along the way, so we’d get more than just a glimpse of the Sahara. We were traveling in our own dedicated bus, but we’d meet up with other buses at pit stops and accommodations. Ours had a mix of 7 Germans, 2 Americans, and 6 Italians.
Our first stop was Ait Benhaddou. You’ve probably never heard of it — neither had I. After several buses had arrived, the tour guide began talking about its history. Honestly, no one was paying much attention at first, until he mentioned something no one expected: Ait Benhaddou is a famous spot for movie sets. You wouldn’t believe it, and it definitely took us all by surprise (even though the tour had mentioned we’d be visiting this village). Many popular movies have been filmed here, with many more to come. Now that he had our undivided attention, the guide began sharing all sorts of interesting facts about the village and the area in general.
Fun Fact: Aït-Ben-Haddou
This village is a UNESCO World Heritage site in Morocco.
* The name comes from Berber: (family), “Ben (son of), “Haddou” (name of the founder)
* Founded in the 10th century
* This area is under constant development.
* The village is split by a river into old and new parts. Today, only around 15 people from 5 families still live in the old part. The newer part now hosts all the essential infrastructure, including a hospital, schools, and supermarkets.
* Traditional homes are built from clay and straw, which provides natural insulation but need maintenance every 2 – 3 vears
* Salt was once a rare and valuable commodity—until it wasn’t. As trade declined, many people moved away, including the last Jewish family, who left in 1964 in search of better commercial opportunities.
Fun Fact: Local Economy
The local economy is comprised of roughly 60% tourism, 10% agriculture, and 30% film industry(!). In fact, Ait Benhaddou is a well-known filming location for movies like Gladiator, The Mummy, Star Wars, Alibabba, Cleopatra and Game of Thrones. The last movie filmed here was The Odyssey with Tom Holland just a couple of weeks ago. The movie Cleopatra is already in planning to be filmed here.
Fun Fact: Local Agriculture
The local river has a high salt content! We were told it’s name, asif ounila, literally means salty river, making it unsuitable for many crops. For that reason, 10 years ago people had to walk 3km away by donkey to retrieve some fresh water. However, olive trees can tolerate the salinity and also withstand drought. Other traditional crops in the area include pomegranates, almonds, and dates!
Fun Fact: Casablanca
The city now known as Casablanca was originally called Anfa, a Berber word meaning “hill” or “elevated place” . Situated on a hill overlooking the Atlantic, Anfa was a prominent settlement founded by the Berbers around the 10th century BC . In the 15th century, the Portuguese destroyed Anfa and established a military fortress on its ruins, naming it Casa Branca, which means “White House” in Portuguese . This name likely referred to the whitewashed buildings that stood prominently on the hill . Over time, as Spanish influence grew in the region, the name evolved into Casablanca, the Spanish translation of “White House” . Although the original white structures were destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, the name Casablanca endured, and today, Anfa remains as the name of a district within the modern city. (wikipedia)
Fun Fact: About Salt
Salt was a precious resource in ancient times, especially for preserving food. It was even used as a form of currency. Roman soldiers were said to receive a monthly allowance called salarium, linked to the Latin word for salt, which eventually made its way into English as “salary.”
Fun Fact: berber invisible ink art
Berber invisible ink art is a traditional technique that utilizes natural ingredients such as saffron, indigo, and green tea mixed with sugar to create seemingly invisible designs. When the artwork is gently heated over a flame, the saffron changes from yellow to brown, and the sugars in the tea caramelize, revealing the hidden patterns. While Morocco is not among the largest producers of saffron globally, it is renowned for the high quality of its saffron.
We continued our journey and, along with several other tour buses, arrived at our accommodation in the evening. Apparently, it was run by a local family, and after dinner, they provided some music and entertainment for the group which wasn’t bad per se. However, they had their kids involved, encouraging guests to dance. While the performance itself was fun, you could sense the kids’ discomfort as they awkwardly tried to get complete strangers and foreigners to join in. It added a bittersweet undertone to the whole experience.
The next day’s pit stop was in Tinghir, known for its Berber rug-making. Honestly, the tour guide wasn’t as engaging as the one from the previous day, and we were led to various places where locals were eager to sell us their goods, like rugs. While it’s part of the business model, the whole experience felt a bit too much like a sales pitch. One local rug maker showed us all the different rugs and initially reassured us that we didn’t have to buy anything if we didn’t want to. But as soon as we asked about prices and made it clear we weren’t buying, his smile faded, and impatience took over. We eventually also survived this part of the tour and arrived in Merzouga by early afternoon at a base camp/hotel right off the road. From there, we were told to take only the essentials for the upcoming desert adventure and leave everything else on the bus.
We then hopped on camels to begin our trek through the Sahara. It sounds a lot more adventurous than it actually was. The camels were lined up, with guides walking alongside us, so it felt more like a 5th-grade horseback ride on a farm than an actual desert adventure. Naturally, other tour buses arrived soon after us, and we all followed the same routine. While the camel ride was exciting and the dunes were breathtaking, the reality was that wherever you looked, there were people. We made a stop at a designated area for sandboarding and waited there until sunset. Afterward, we checked into our tents. They were modest but more than enough for a night in the desert: no wind and it was actually a bit warm. In the evening, we enjoyed a meal, along with some music, dancing, and games.
Return to Marrakesh – Vacation Milestone
The next day marked our return. We got up around 5:30 AM to catch the sunrise at 6:00 AM, then made our way back to the base camp by the roadside. Since the camel ride had already lost its novelty, and taking photos was much easier on foot, some of us opted to walk back instead.
Although the camp was only about 300 meters from the main road, this Sahara tour was still interesting to experience. At times, the wind was unbearably strong, sand got into everything, and without clear tracks, it’d be easy to lose your way. While the day hadn’t been too hot and the night was comfortably warm, the morning turned out to be colder than expected. It really made me think how tough daily life must be for nomads in such conditions.
Looking back, our driver may have made the Sahara stay seem more intense than it actually was, emphasizing the need for warm clothes, water, scarves, etc. In reality, there were power outlets, food and water, and we weren’t exactly far from the main road. But still, the cold and the wind were real, and some preparation was definitely necessary.
After that, we hit the road again with a few pit stops along the way and eventually arrived back in Marrakesh around 7 PM after about 10 hours on the road.
Fun Fact: Tachograph
At the start of our trip, we noticed our driver inserting what looked like a small paper disc into a strange device. Turns out, that was a tachograph—a tool that records metrics like driving time, speed, distance, and periods of rest or work. While Morocco doesn’t enforce mandatory breaks, some tour companies still try to follow basic safety guidelines.
Trip to Essaouira
My friend was really eager to go to the coast at least once, with the prospect of surfing on the beach – and so we made it happen. With the help of a tip from another tourist, we managed to book something similar to Flixbus, though the website was in French, which made it a bit tricky. On the plus side, the prices were a fraction of what other tourist services charged, and we ended up traveling mostly with locals. My seating neighbor, Patcha, was Moroccan, living in Marrakesh but heading to Sidi Kaouki, a small village near Essaouira, for some surfing. He was super friendly, quick with his English, and invited us to surf with him at his spot later on. I passed the info along to my friend Karo, but without committing to anything just yet, since our plans were still not set in stone. Once we arrived in Essaouira, we were still figuring things out when another German girl bumped into us. She was curious if our travel plans aligned, but it turned out we were heading in different directions (for now, at least).
The day was still young, so we checked into our hostel right on the coast near the Portuguese wall. Afterward, we spent the afternoon window-shopping and taking in the sights. Along the way, we unexpectedly ran into four familiar faces: it was the group of Italians who had joined us on the Sahara tour – What a coincidence! A little past noon, the hunt for lunch began. I was lucky enough to stumble upon what I’d call a true local Moroccan street food spot, hidden in a random alley and found on Google Maps, no less. As Essaouira is located at the coast, seafood is one of its specialty and indeed my charcoal grilled calamari did not disappoint.
Later, we made our way back to the hostel. With a few minutes to spare before sunset, I took a short run along the beach. Even though I was still tired from the previous days, it felt great to just run along the shore, feeling thankful for my health and ability to do so. We were a little indecisive about where to watch the sunset, but it turned out that the rooftop of our hostel was the perfect sunset viewing spot.
In the hostel I also met Jack, a South African traveler, and after sunset, we went to grab dinner together. Our conversation was a refreshing change of pace—diverse and filled with stories from his many travels across Africa. On the way back to our hostel, we stumbled upon a familiar face: Patcha, the guy we met on the bus! He was on his way to “good vibes and party”. Small world, right?
Side Quest to Sidi Kaouki
The next day, we checked out of the hostel and headed to Sidi Kaouki, the surfing spot Patcha had recommended. At first, we planned to take the local bus, but after an elderly man patiently assured us (several times) that the bus would arrive in about 15 minutes until well past noon, we gave up and opted for a taxi instead.
Arriving in Sidi Kaouki, we headed directly for the surf rental shop Patcha had suggested. We almost walked past it, when the owner waved to me and said “You are the friend of Patcha! He showed me picture”—I guess it’s not too hard to spot a long-haired Asian guy in Morocco! After getting changed, we hit the water. It was my first time surfing, so I got a little crash course from Karo and then again from Patcha. As I fought for my life in the shallow white-water waves, we suddenly spotted a familiar face: Juliane, the German girl from the Essaouira bus station! Turns out, Sidi Kaouki was exactly where she was planning to surf too. Small world strikes again.
Our surfing session didn’t last too long, as Karo had a little cramp, and I realized that surfing is way more exhausting than it looks. Instead, we spent the remaining time taking photos with our new friends, which, honestly, probably took longer than the actual surfing session.
Arrival in Marrakesh part 3 – The Departure
We hustled back to Essaouira just in time to catch the last (and possibly only?) bus to Marrakesh. By now, it was our third time in the city, and it already felt oddly familiar even if the alleys still managed to confuse us every single time.
We had booked a solid hostel for our last night, which we chose specifically for its bed bug sanitizing service. Apparently, the beds used during Sahara tours aren’t always cleaned properly and are a potential source of unwanted souvenirs. The hostel seemed to take the matter seriously, which helped ease our minds.
After a good-ish night’s sleep, we were ready to head to the airport. We couldn’t believe how many memories we’d made, how many people we’d met, and especially for Karo, how many souvenirs we’d managed to collect in just one week—and that it was already over. No food poisoning, no major issues, no drama. Lucky us! …Or so we thought (for details read the Sudden Plot Twists ;)).
That’s about it—we came full circle. From the initial challenges of nearly missing the flight, to almost not getting on a flight at all, it all seemed to come together. It was a week full of new experiences, unexpected twists, and loads of fun. Even though it was all pretty spontaneous, everything seemed to fall into place with just the right amount of luck, almost suspiciously too well, but as one would expect from the ever-working masterplan. I’m incredibly grateful for my health, the ability to just go for it, and the financial flexibility that made this trip possible.
Morocco—and honestly, Africa in general—was never really on my travel list. But I’m so glad I said yes. I left with a broader perspective, new connections, and a whole set of stories I’ll be telling for a long time.
Epiloge -Learnings
Some other funny little things I picked up during our time in Morocco:
- From the top of my head, I’d say tagine, couscous, dates, and olives were the most prominent foods/dishes.
- Most tour guides or street vendors could speak English, French, and some even Italian or German.
- Do not let boys or young men help you find your way (our hostel even mentioned this as a note). They will eventually ask for money. A little unfortunate, because most of the people we met were super friendly.
- There are really a lot of German people in the tourist hotspots. I didn’t know this before, but apparently it’s a very popular vacation destination.
Also, people would readily ask me where I’m from. In my head, I always knew what they were actually trying to ask, but I still answered “Germany” every time. Here are some fun stats from that:
- Believed me: 3
- Said I’m not German / asked where I’m really from: 8
- Responded with “Japanese?” after I said Germany: 5
- Yelled “Japan?” at me unprovoked: 4
- Tried speaking Japanese to me out of nowhere: 4
- Catcalled me with “Nihao”: 1
And a few funny remarks about my eyes:
- “Your eyes look Japanese.”
- “You don’t have German eyes.”
- (squeezes their own eyes for emphasis)